Bridges indeed do have their own contribution to the voice of your banjo. A compensated bridge is a bridge that is not straight but is somewhat U-shaped with notches that make each string a different length from the nut. In theory, each string should be a specific length for precise intonation all the way up the fingerboard. A bridge that is “compensated” is one that makes each string a different length to accomplish the improved pitch up and down. It is heavier than most bridges and so sustains alot and has good bass with sweet tone. I can't say it is louder or punchier but it may appear louder because the clarity of the tone projects better than a slightly muffled tone.
As a general rule, the thicker and heavier a bridge is, the sweeter and more bassy it is. The thinner and lighter a bridge is, the faster and crisper the response. However, every banjoist has a different touch and draws out of each banjo a different sound.The Snuffy Smith bridges are nicely made and tend to be fairly thick.
While these rules of thumb are interesting and can offer some guidance, the best approach is to try bridges until you find the sound you are after. If you want more bass, then a light, thin bridge is probably not going to be what you want. The bridges that compensate the third string only, are not usually dramatic in effect in "sweetening" or correcting intonation. Fully compensated bridges do offer excellent correction and can tend to be a little thicker and heavier. We have some curved bridges made by Warren Yates with innovative features like maple feet with coconut shell top. This bridge has a sharp,biting tone, which is great if that is the character you are after.
Much of these differences can really only be discovered by experimenting. If you use the rules o fthumb, decide which direction you want to go, and listen to your tone with each bridge, I think you will find the punch, power and sweetness that you are after.
How to Install a Shubb Sliding 5th String Capo
First, if you have a luthier near by, I would recommend you take the banjo and capo to him and have him put it on your instrument. I would not like to see the finish or the neck become damaged in the process of putting on the capo as you will have to do some hole drilling.
That being said, the following instructions have been put together to be of some help.
1. Looking at the side of the fingerboard, you calculate 1/16" or less down as your mark for the top of the bar of the fifth string capo.
2. From side to side, merely place the left side end of the bar (we are assuming that you have the LONG bar Shubb capo) to line up with the 5th fret.
3. To install, pin prick the neck through the mounting screw hole to mark where to drill; pilot the hole with a dremel bit or regular bit which is less thatn 1/16" in diameter and then finish drilling a screw hole with a 1/16" bit. Ebony is a hard wood and one needs to pre-drill with the 1/16" bit. Then install the first long screw. Then mark and drill the next two holes and install the 2nd and 3rd screws.
As you can see, there is a fair amount of drilling. You also need to know that should you CHANGE YOUR MIND in the future and take the Shubb capo off, filling the holes in may still leave signs of drilling visible. The instructions make it clear that the pre-drilling is quite necessary both because the ebony is hard and to prevent cracking of the fingerboard/neck. Please remember that whenever you take a drill to your instrument, you take full responsibility for what may happen regardless of the thoroughness of our instructions. If there is any damage. we would not be able to cover it under warranty but we would be happy to help you on a chargeable basis.
Attached is also an information guide on Spikes vs. Capo that may also be of interest.
DEERING INFO GUIDE - SPIKES vs. SLIDING CAPO
When a banjoist wants to capo the fifth string, here are considerations for the two systems that Deering Banjo Company recommends:
THE SPIKES
Spikes are small model railroad spikes that are fitted into the fingerboard that hold the fifth string down at a chosen fret when capoing the other four strings on a five string banjo.
*Spikes are small and not very noticeable.
*Spikes usually require two hands to engage the string
*Spikes can be removed and the holes filled so the holes are virtually invisible
*Spikes are inexpensive
*Spikes require a small amount of tuning once the string is in place
*Spikes do not change the appearance of a banjo
*As many spikes as desired can be installed on a Deering Banjo
THE SLIDING CAPO
The Sliding capo made by Shubb Capos is a small brass rail that is screwed to the side of the neck with a sliding post or "finger" that is pushed down onto the fifth string by a knurled thumbscrew that is on the sliding "finger".
*The sliding capo is fast, smooth and easy to use (Much faster than the spikes)
*The sliding capo needs only one hand to operate easily
*The sliding capo usually does not require re-tuning
*The rail can be felt by players who wrap their left thumb around the neck (some don't like this feature)
*The sliding capo spans an area that reaches the most commonly capoed frets but doesn't reach as far as the
spikes, which can be installed on every fret.
*The sliding capo has a moderate cost. The sliding capo is beautifully made and adds another dimension to
the looks of a banjo neck.
*The sliding capo adds a small but noticeable mechanism to the area near the fifth string which is fine for
some players and not others.
WHICH TO CHOOSE?
*If speed and accuracy are a priority choose the sliding capo
*If not changing the appearance or feel of the banjo is a priority, choose the spikes
*If you just like one more than the other, choose it; they are both good systems
*If you can't decide between the two, choose the spikes because they can be removed and the filled holes are invisible and then installing the capo doesn't leave the banjo cosmetically scarred. Removing the capo leaves holes in the side of the neck and they are always visible
WARRANTY CONSIDERATIONS
If the installation is done by a skilled luthier or repairperson, it should not affect the lifetime warranty. We reserve the right to make this determination. Spikes or a Shubb Capo are custom options that can be installed at the factory if requested on the order.
Removing Goodtime 2 Resonator
Owners of a Goodtime 2 banjo can easily change this banjo into an openback style Goodtime banjo. For those who would care to do this, we have written some very simple instructions that will achieve this effect.
1.
First remove the four phillips head screws on your flange to remove the
resonator from the banjo.
2. You
have a 2-piece flange that is held in place by the 16 j-bolts/hex nuts on your
banjo.
3.
Remove the hex nuts from one side of your banjo flange.
4.
Remove that side of the flange.
5.
Re-attach the hex nuts to the j-bolts and tighten the j-bolts down gently over
the tension hoop again.
6. Now
repeat these steps on the other side of the banjo.
7.
Check the head tension to be sure that the banjo head is tight...be careful not
to over-tighten them so that you do not break your banjo head.
8. You
now have the openback version of the Goodtime banjo.
How to Replace 5th String Peg
What you are experiencing can sometimes happen if your neck has gone through some shrinkage due to environmental conditions. It is a simple process to replace the tuner.
1. Remove the peg from the hole.
2. Cut a small round circle out of white paper.
3. Put a small drop of super glue on the tip of the tuner where you see the splines (those little ridges around the end of the tuner that goes into the hole).
4. Put the small circle of white paper around the splines so that the drop of glue will hold it in place as well.
5. Now place the tuner back in the hold being careful to align it as it was originally.
6. Hold the tuner in place for a few seconds while the glue sets.
7. You can GENTLY tap it with a RUBBER mallet if you want to set it in place.
8. It will now hold. The piece of paper is there to fill in the gap that has occurred through neck shrinkage.
Let me know if you have any further questions on this. You can call me at our toll free number, 800-845-7791
Goodtime Banjo Piezo Pickup Installation
1.The banjo piezo film pickup will go on the underside of the head,
parallel to the bridge. Remove the film covering one side of the pickup and place the pickup under the
head and parallel to the bridge.
2.You will have to drill a hole in the
rim to accommodate the pickup jack installation whether you have an openback or resonator model.
3.
Unscrew the end and remove all the washers
and the hex nut.
4. Put
the pickup through the hole.
5.You
will need to determine how many of the washers you replace to get a snug fit on
the jack before you replace the hex nut back in place.
6. You
do not want it to rotate. It may mean a bit of experimentation…and it may be you
will only need to use only the largest washer to place over the end then screw
on the hex nut. Screw the end cap in place. Done!!
7.The
installation is pretty basic. Call our toll free number if you have any
questions.
